Friday, July 31, 2009

Charles-isms

GLAM'MA-
Southern vernacular for "glamour".
Origins :Created by my friend Anthony Monday night when discussing why as a youth I preferred Dynasty over Knot's Landing. He said because I need "GLAM'MA"!!! Not glamour, but GLAM'MA! And he was so right!

To illustrate my point, enjoy one of my favorite scenes from Dynasty, featuring Alexis Carrington Colby and Dominique Deveraux...



And what the hell, this one too! Notice how very now Alexis' jacket is!...

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Everday Life and Observations

I miss Dynel falls...
I cannnot even express the instant Glam'ma!!!



Editorialism in Mainstream Media

I came across this old commercial that I was mesmerized by when I first saw it as a child. It was for Lady Clairol and it featured models in the iconic 60's plexiglass bubble.

Seeing this commercial again made me think of several things...

First it reminded me of my favorite part of the film "Valley of the Dolls": the fashion modeling montage in which the main character Anne Wells becomes the Gillian Girl. The tone of the faux advertisement in the film and the real one for Clairol is identical, from the voice over to the swelling background music.
(forward to 7:20 mins)

My next thought was how straight out of the pages of Vogue magazine the Clairol ad seemed. Its a direct take from the work of photographer Melvin Sokolsky. This is one my favorites of his photographs, mainly because of the severe elegance of the Lanvin Castillo gown and the Alexandre de Paris up-do, but also for its amazing composition.


It struck me how amazing it was- the immediate affect high fashion had on mainstream media at that time. Sokolsky's work was and remains highly editorial...it was the product of the Vreeland era of fashion images, as compared to the preceding austere Carmel Snow era and the succeeding realism of the Mirabella era. Usually that which is highly editorial, whether hyper-sexualized in nature or pure flight of fancy and fantasy, is watered down considerably before it is given to the general public via television or some other less esoteric medium. But in this almost surreal epoque of the mid and late 60s, the image is a direct, unfettered representation of its original inspiration.

I feel we lack this today. I feel like for all the wonderful things still happening in high fashion and the striking editorial images still being produced, its not significantly or sufficiently trickling down to the masses. There is no glamour... no chic...no real INSPIRATION nor ASPIRATION. But maybe its just ole, nostalgic me?

So I pose the question, how do you feel the fashion editorial impacts mainstream media images today?? Is it watered down OR is high fashion accurately represented? Or do you think the reverse is true and that the mainstream media is influencing the editorial trends?

Monday, July 27, 2009

Chic Contentment

This was written last night around 11pm...

~~~
I often feel like all I have is chic. Its like that Judy Garland song “If love were all”…”I believe that since this life began the most I’ve ever had is the talent to amuse”. So true. Amuse and exude style. The two combined is a powerful combination, no doubt. But it also can be excruciatingly lonely. Even when there are dozens around you , lapping it up, basking in the glow of glamour and the warmth of wit, wisdom, and compassion.

There are times when you want to put chic down…or the effort of chic, more precisely. You can’t stop being what you innately are. But the effort sometimes feels empty….especially when it has to be used as a filler for other things that are missing. Spending the late evening planning new ensembles for the week, or creating a new piece of jewelry, or dreaming of more elegant costumes for exquisite evenings that may or may not be on the horizon WHEN you really just want to be watching a movie, snuggly in the arms of one who loves you and whom you love in return. It gets played out real quick…especially when its nightly or daily over a period of time.

Chic is my passion. Its one of my raisons d’etre. It always will be. And as long as I live, I will be perpetually in pursuit of that which is chic. But I know there’s more and I want it and yet it seems to be so elusive for some reason. I come close, but it never lasts, or its never right. So I end up sitting in my den in some fabulous get up, with no place to go and no one to be in the moment with. Or lying in my bed, staring wistfully and wantonly at the ceiling with a magnificent jewel on my finger and maybe a mink piece in petting distance, listening to and FEELING Phyllis Hyman. I think I shall retire to the latter now. If wallowing in the truth of my emotions doesn’t feel right tonight, then I’ll just escape into a Bette Davis film…or maybe Hitchcock…something distractingly mesmerizing.

As I write this though, I think maybe the problem is that I keep expecting something to change. For the outcome of my efforts toward greater fulfillment to be different “this time” for some reason. Maybe I should resign myself to the fact that a chic life is all I am entitled to and to somehow make that and let that be enough…eliminating the desire and the expectation (and subsequent disappointment). I do feel I am worthy and deserving of something more and I guess that keeps me from complete resignation to the state of things as they are, but because I am worthy and deserving doesn’t mean a thing in this life. I still may never get it, so accept it and move on contentedly.

I suppose I should clarify for those who may misconstrue this. I have much more than just chic and am extremely grateful for the people and things I have in my life, as well as my many other sterling qualities. But chic is one of those things that is uniquely and solely mine…the way a real, great love is. So what I am lamenting is having only one passion- chic- rather than two: chic AND a love of my own. Why do I place chic on the same plane as great love? Because its exclusively my own. Even my wit and wisdom aren’t exclusively mine as I know many who have my same sense of humor and kind of wisdom…they are my friends. But there is truly no one with my exact same special brand of chic. But I digress…

Contentment with chic…correction:GREATER contentment with chic…we will work on that…
~~~

I ended up watching my tape of Judy Garland live performances from the 60s. Did the trick. :-)

Saturday, April 11, 2009

Everyday Life and Observations: A Conversation with Life

So I sent Life a note in the mail yesterday. It went as such:

"Life, I am tired of having to knock on your door every damn day. Hoping you will answer. Hoping you will give me what I am actually there for.
Why don't you come to my house and knock on my damn door for a change. You know where I live. And bring something decent with ya..."

The post office was especially quick. He called me up this morning. I answered on my gorgeous rotary phone. The conversation went as such:

Me: "Hello?"

Life: "I got your letter."

Me: "Oh really. That was fast. I was about to send you an addendum post card saying 'Or am I going to have just keep knocking till I knock your damn door down?!'
So why are you calling?"

Life: "To tell you that the reason I don't knock at your door is because the house you have built for yourself is too grand and intimidating. I am scared to even approach your gate, much less knock on your mahogany french doors."

Me: "Oh Life, you damn fool! Don't you know I built this for you. For you to come and live and bring all that you have, good and bad, with you. But you never come so I lock myself away in here because of you. You are the one to blame. Not me"

Life: "But I wanted to build your house. A real house. With you, over time. But you built your own house. A house of illusion, built of dreams, hopes, fantasy and the house of illusion you built is so grand, theres no way you'll ever leave it for a more modest, real house with me."

Me: "Thats not true, Life. I had to build this house because I had no place else to live. But I only wanted to stay here til you answered your door or until you came for me. I don't like this house as much as it seems. Its drafty, it doesn't keep out the wind and the cold. The colors have faded since my youth when I first built it. So come, already, and lets go build a real house together."

There was a pause.

Life: "Meet me outside your gates"

Me: "I don't know. I have tried to meet you before. All those times I knocked on your door. All those times I stood outside my gates, everyone else zooming by with their Life, waiting for you and you never showed up. You left me standing there, with my hopes in my hands, crushed, and running back into my maison d'illusions.
Promise me you'll be there."

Life: "I promise I'll be there, but I can't promise me I'll be what you want me to be or have waiting what you want me to have. I can only show up as I am, just like you can only show up as you are."

Me: "What about all those times you didn't show up?"

Life: "I always showed up. I just didn't have anything for you. So you didn't see me. Or you saw me and was disappointed that I didn't have anything or that I didn't have what you wanted and so you didn't take me in or go with me."

Me: "What else was I supposed to do?! What else was I supposed to see?! I wasn't asking for the moon and the sun and the stars. Just a little bit of....something, anything to let me know it was worth the effort, that I was worthy of something good."

Life: "I know, but thats just not how I operate. Its one of my many flaws. But if you love me, you have to take me as I am."

Me: "I don't know if I love you."

Life: "Then why don't you give up."

Me: "I can't. I don't know why, but I can't."

Life: "Thats because you love yourself and you love me and you love what we have even when its positively dreadful a lot of times."

Me: "Well..."

Life: "Just keep believing in yourself and in me. And keep meeting me and I know at some point I will give you what you need, what you want. Just try and be patient with me. Can you do that?"

Me, tears in my eyes, trying to breath: "I think I can."

Life: "Then meet me outside your gate, everyday, and I'll be there."

Me: "Ok. I'll try."

Life: "Thats all I ask. I love you."

Me: "I love you too."

Friday, April 10, 2009

Everyday Life and Observations

Why dont I ever see drag queens or cross dressers in career separates or business attire?! No really. I know its funny, but its true. You never see it.
I have never seen one "show up and show out", as they say, in a Tahari suit, or something by Ellen Tracy, or even a St.John Knit. I personally would have a lot more respect for one who was walking around town, looking so pulled together for day.
And while, we are at it, I don't ever see them embracing current high fashion trends, at all. I have never seen one trying to adapt a viable runway look. Never have I seen one sporting something remotely resembling Lanvin or Giambattista Valli, or even vintage St. Laurent or vintage Balenciaga-- all of whom make/made clothes with silhouettes and porportions that would be very flattering to their "non-traditional" body types. Much more so than Cavalli, Versace, and Alaia inspired looks. And I am well-aware that they can't afford to buy these designers- who can these days- but you can definitely get the look for less. And if you are going to have something made, as many of them do, why not have something made that references Poiret or Mainbocher for a change rather than always Gaultier or Mugler.
Think outside the box. Think Nina Simone instead of Diana Ross. June Christy instead of Cher. Or lets compromise and agree on Jospehine Baker, the best of both worlds!
Just my thoughts...

Everyday Life and Observations

Life, I am tired of having to knock on your door every damn day. Hoping you will answer. Hoping you will give me what I am actually there for.
Why don't you come to my house and knock on my damn door for a change. You know where I live. And bring something decent with ya...

Am I alone in these sentiments?

Everyday Life and Observations

Isn't it funny how sometimes your mood and the weather sync up and at other times its completely opposite?

Some days, I wake up and look out the window, and its cloudy and rainy, and I get this warm, cozy feeling that makes me want to throw a scarf or cowl neck on and some shoulder pads and listen to slow jams. This is a good thing, for me. I call these Quiet Storm days. I like Quiet Storm days. I can't have too many in a row, because I need the sunshine or the mood will quickly change. I can deal with maybe 3 Q.S. days in a row.

Then other days, I wake up and I look out the window, and its sunny and bright, and I get this dragging, shiftless feeling that makes me want to lay about in my house coat and listen to "Good Morning, Heartache" and "Black Coffee". This is not a good thing. I hate those days. And whereas feeling good on a Q.S. day is optimistic, feeling bad on a sunny day, is even more depressing. Don't get me wrong, I can listen to and enjoy Good Morning Heartache and Black Coffee when I am in a great mood, but I FEEL those songs when I am in a low.

Today is a very cloudy rainy day here in Nashville. And when I woke up (for good, not the first time which never counts) and I looked out the window, instead of feeling Quiet Storm, I felt Good Morning Heartache.

So whats the point? The weather probably has little to do with it. That we are just going to feel what we feel, when we feel it, however we feel it, no matter what. So I guess all you can do is just deal with it and keep it movin'.

Thursday, April 2, 2009

Emails from an Ideal Life... (fiction by Charles Brown)

Darling,
Hope everything is going well at work.
Can you stop on the way home and pick up some milk and tissue? And we're almost out of rum and we will probably need some for tomorrow night. Also, can you bring home from the office a few yards of that beaded midnight blue peau d'ange from last season? I think I might whip up a long tunic for the party. Thank you so much, Dear!
We're having chicken and roasted potatoes for dinner. I love you and I'll see you when you get home.
Love,
~

Emails from an Ideal Life... (fiction by Charles Brown)

Congrats on the last collection! I heard the line was picked up by Galeries Lafayette...thats outrageous! And, don't say anything yet, but you are in the running for the September cover. I'm having lunch with Mimi O. next week and I am TELLING her she has GOT to get that ottoman suit and that champagne gazar cocktail dress from the collection.
I'll be in town on the 18th. Lets do lunch then. The Waverly Inn or 21? I'm not doing La Grenouille again with you...you don't know how to act!! LOL!
Luvs ya!
~

Emails from an Ideal Life... (fiction by Charles Brown)

Darling,
Why didn't you wake me before you left this morning?? You know I hate waking up and you're not there. Well, you must have know how much I needed the rest.
Anyway, I hope you are having a lovely day so far, despite the rain. Don't dawdle getting home. The rain inspired me and I made a new Quiet Storm mix cd...from vinyl! Yes, all the crackin' and poppin' included! I am getting a bottle of Riesling, the pasta is in the oven, and I will start the fire at 5. Can't wait to see you...
Love,
~

Friday, January 16, 2009

Everyday Life and Observations

In the 2nd season (i think) of the Cosby Show, there was an episode when Vanessa had a pimple on her forehead and the every fashionable Denise advised her to conceal it sartorially with a headband. I have been a devotee of headbands, turbans, and the like since. But my point is, she did not tell Vanessa or me that wearing headbands (or turbans worn low on the forehead for warmth rather than distinction) will GIVE you a pimple!
I will be glad when it warms up...
At least to the mid 50's so I can still wear a fur collar or scarf , but no overcoat.

Semper Chic!

Reading

Believe it or not, I am not what I would consider an avid reader. Maybe others would disagree. I am an avid "skimmer". I like to go to the library and check out tons of books and keep them for as long as I can- sometimes months- and constantly skim through them and get bits of information at a time. Which is why I don't read much fiction, because you can't jump in the middle of a story, but a biography, or a book on any particular subject (art, fashion, travel, entertaining, decor, even history), can be gleaned from at will. I guess I like to treat all books like reference books in that way.

Now, if I get really engrossed or intrigued or inquisitive, I will not stop reading and complete the entire or most of the piece in one sitting, whatever the topic. Which is another reason why I shy away from fiction because if I get hooked within the first 30 pages or so, I'm likely to do nothing else until I have finished or physically can't read anymore, then I go back to it as soon as my eyes and head have recovered.

Also, I feel my interests are too diverse, yet inter-related or overlapping , that I don't like and sometimes can't spend too much time on one topic, because my mind links that topic to something else and then I'm on to that. I usually come back to the original topic, but in the moment I must follow the train of thought to its terminal.
I am currently, actually reading "The History of Haute Couture, 1850-1950" by Diana de Marly. Its a very informative, interesting, in depth look at the end of historic costume and the beginnings of modern fashion as we know it. (those good fashion design students know the delineation between the two!) It starts just before Charles Worth in the mid 19th Century and it continues on up to Dior's New Look. I am so happy to finally be actually reading this book. I have done the skim several times before, and got a lot of good info and facts that I have retained to this day, but I really wanted to get the full picture of what was going on. I have read so much about Haute Couture and the entire fashion industry from WWII/The New Look thru today, and am well-versed in what was going on where, when, with whom, and why, but the period preceding WWII has always been a little more sketchy. I know the major figures and their contributions and what the general culture and style was of the times, but I never had a good grasp on the entire setting and happenings of the industry. That is what I am finally getting. Anyone familiar with me or who has visited the "About" section on the Charles Lord website (www.CharlesLord.com) knows that I am a "coutureophile" and anything dealing with current or past couture fascinates me to no end.

I like to read books like this first thing in the morning, before I get out of bed. It stirs my imagination and my creativity and helps me envision the things I want for myself and Charles Lord. I know Charles Lord is going to be a major couture house like Worth, Lanvin, Chanel, and Dior and so I am just studying up to make that happen!

I am also reading/skimming various works by Flaubert, including "Madame Bovary", "White Boy Shuffle" by a wonderful humor writer Paul Beatty, a book on the history of corsets by Valerie Steele, "Gatherings" by Marina Rust, and various short stories my Harlem Renaissance authors.

Semper Chic!

My Favorite Things

The song "I Loves You Porgy" :
I first discovered the song a year ago. I was listening to Diana Ross' Blue album, which is a jazz album covering songs popularly and previously recorded by Billie Holiday and was produced as a follow up to the Lady Sings The Blues soundtrack album, but was not released until 2006. Anyway, I kept repeating that one track over and over, because of the orchestration and the vocal delivery and the interesting lyrics. I just loved it. Well I recently got a Billie Holiday cd and a Nina Simone cd, and both have versions of "I Loves You Porgy". Well, they have a very different feel than Miss Ross'. Not better, just different and I feel truer sentimentality to what the song is about and what is going on in the plot of the American folkloric opera "Porgy and Bess" from which the song is derived. Diana's rendition is done with a big band sound and the tempo swings and is thus more ebullient, whereas Holiday's and Simone's versions are much simpler, yet still complex; they have more longing and passion and is tres distingue' .

ANYWAY, I started listening to Billie's version last week, and have played it at least once (usually more times) a day, everyday since. Its just such an evocative song. There are few songs, by few artists that move me the way this one does. I could listen to it forever.
I couldn't find Diana's version online for comparison, but here is Billie's and Nina's versions.
Enjoy!





Monday, January 12, 2009

Charles-isms

An ongoing list of my favorite words or phrases, either quoted from others or wholly/partial created by me...

Bovarian-
Relating to or in the style of Madame Emma Bovary, the title character in the eponymous Flaubert novel.
ie, "Lounging in my caftan, talking on my rotary phone, I feel perfectly Bovarian!"

My new favorite phrases come from the 1949 film Madame Bovary, directed by Vincent Minnelli, staring Jennifer Jones.
The first one is " Is there something wrong with wanting things to be beautiful?"
The second is "Happiness, Fashion, and High Romance."

Quelle chic!

A still of Jennifer Jones as Emma Bovary surrounded by beaux at the ball, from the film Madame Bovary.

My Favorite Things

I decided to do more posts that allowed me to express myself without causing me to write 4 page essays! You know I can talk forever and have something witty and brilliant to say on almost every topic, so conciseness is an issue for me...one that I am not overly eager to modify, but be able to use when necessary. Anyway, I figure this is one of many ways I can succinctly share my thoughts and feelings, but knowing me I will find a way to extol endlessly in this venue as well!
For some of you that already know me well, this ongoing list may not always surprise you, but hopefully entertain.

Rotary Phones:
I just got one. Not a regular black Bell desk phone. But a beautiful brass and marble table with the princess style receiver and rotary dial built in. I am a sucker for old-fashioned elegance and this table-phone reeks of it! Now I want a quill dip pen and ink well and parchment note pad to sit on the table to doodle and scribble messages on. I will try to take a picture of it and post it .

I also like the idea of having to be relatively stationary while using a rotary phone. Unlike a cordless house phone or a cell phone, you actually get to take time and focus on conversation. The fact that I have to practically sit at this phone, prepares me for the privilege of enjoying the pleasure of conversing with the person on the other end, whether it be brief or at length. It also allows me to think before I dial, if I really have the time or energy to engage in a lengthy conversation at the present time.

In all, its quaint and luxurious and I love it!

A New Friend

The highlight of my day today was talking to my new friend and fellow designer Aaron Potts of New York. He is terribly gifted and well accomplished in our field, and he is a fine human being indeed. He is a talented blogger as well, and I have enjoyed his delightful, diverse insights for some while now. If you haven't checked out his blog "Cultural Pie" (http://cultural-pie.blogspot.com/), I strongly recommend that you do. If you enjoy "Charles' Chic Chat", you will enjoy "Cultural Pie"!

Monday, December 22, 2008

The Height of Chic

So you'd be surprised how you discover things? I was watching the Simpsons a couple of weeks ago and in this episode Lisa had gotten a new IPod and was showing it to her friends a was like "I downloaded The Birth of the Cool by Miles Davis" and she played a short snippet. Well, I was immediately intrigued and made a mental note to check out the album from the library.
Well....
I have listened to it night and day for the last week. That album is the musical essence of chic, elegance, Parisian Couture!!! I LONG to have another fashion show just so I can use the tracks from Birth of the Cool for my soundtrack. It's MOOOOOVINGLY glamorous!

So here are the Venus de Milo and Jeru tracks from Birth of the Cool by Miles Davis, accompanied by the vintage footage of Balenciaga, Dior and Chanel Haute Couture from the late 50's and early 60's. Play the Davis videos while you play the fashion videos below them, but mute the fashion videos so you can watch them while listening to Davis. You know what I mean...

Enjoy!!











Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Everyday Life and Observations

This has been one of the most trying years of my life and I have spent a lot of time trying to find answers to very difficult, self-existential questions. Far too many and far too personal to ever attempt to get into here. But, as the year closes and I find myself coming into a deeper sense of peace, if not better understanding, of my life and the substance thereof, I have come to some conclusions...

The most important of these conclusions is that you must see yourself and love yourself as God loves you and as God sees you. Not as people do. Nor in relation to situations, circumstances, or environments. None of these things make you who you are and thus do not impact God's love for you, positively or negatively, or the way He sees you, positively or negatively. The only thing that matters is that you love God and you love yourself and that you show this not so much by the things you do or don't do, but by the way you think, see, and feel about yourself and Him. And in truth, you can't truly love, honor and cherish yourself without loving God, and vice versa.

So when you do or say something that you don't feel great about deep down-not on the surface, because thats where opinions and circumstances abide, but really deep in your heart and soul- thats when God isn't pleased. And in reverse, when you do or say something that makes you feel happy and proud and fulfilled, thats when God is pleased. But most commonly and thus most profoundly, when you live an ordinary day where you may feel a little up in the morning, a little down in the afternoon; when you neither did anything remarkably good or detestably bad; when you just were YOU, with all the confusion, clarity, delusion, lucidity, haplessness, grace, anguish, joy, frailty, might, foolishness, & wisdom that comes with being you, God is alright with you and you are alright with Him.

Once you got that, all the other stuff that doesn't make sense or you can't find order to, seems not so daunting and you realize you will work it out, what you can work out, in time. And the rest is up to God and thus will also find its place in time. Its sounds so easy, but if you loose sight of how God sees you, separate from the situation, it can all seem too overwhelming.