Showing posts with label Alexandre. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Alexandre. Show all posts

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Editorialism in Mainstream Media

I came across this old commercial that I was mesmerized by when I first saw it as a child. It was for Lady Clairol and it featured models in the iconic 60's plexiglass bubble.

Seeing this commercial again made me think of several things...

First it reminded me of my favorite part of the film "Valley of the Dolls": the fashion modeling montage in which the main character Anne Wells becomes the Gillian Girl. The tone of the faux advertisement in the film and the real one for Clairol is identical, from the voice over to the swelling background music.
(forward to 7:20 mins)

My next thought was how straight out of the pages of Vogue magazine the Clairol ad seemed. Its a direct take from the work of photographer Melvin Sokolsky. This is one my favorites of his photographs, mainly because of the severe elegance of the Lanvin Castillo gown and the Alexandre de Paris up-do, but also for its amazing composition.


It struck me how amazing it was- the immediate affect high fashion had on mainstream media at that time. Sokolsky's work was and remains highly editorial...it was the product of the Vreeland era of fashion images, as compared to the preceding austere Carmel Snow era and the succeeding realism of the Mirabella era. Usually that which is highly editorial, whether hyper-sexualized in nature or pure flight of fancy and fantasy, is watered down considerably before it is given to the general public via television or some other less esoteric medium. But in this almost surreal epoque of the mid and late 60s, the image is a direct, unfettered representation of its original inspiration.

I feel we lack this today. I feel like for all the wonderful things still happening in high fashion and the striking editorial images still being produced, its not significantly or sufficiently trickling down to the masses. There is no glamour... no chic...no real INSPIRATION nor ASPIRATION. But maybe its just ole, nostalgic me?

So I pose the question, how do you feel the fashion editorial impacts mainstream media images today?? Is it watered down OR is high fashion accurately represented? Or do you think the reverse is true and that the mainstream media is influencing the editorial trends?

Friday, May 2, 2008

Backcomb'n Beat

An album cover from a compilation of 60's British girl group hits and rarities. I love the title and the pic!


For those of you who know me well, you know how I have an affinity for bouffant hairstyles. I just think they are swell!! I like the bouffants of the 60's, the ones that have lots of height at the crown, back and away from the face and fall elegantly back and to the sides. They frame the face and neck so well. (I don't care for the beehives of the 50's.)
Princess Luciana Pignatelli in Valentino
Some of the best bouffants today are worn by Deeda Blair, a phenomenal halo of salt and pepper she has donned since the 60s, beautiful actresses Lynn Whitfield and Diahann Carroll, and the incomparable Michelle Obama.


Michelle Obama

Back in the day, every chic woman would backcomb as a daily ritual, not just for specail occassions. I recall Andre Talley recalling how the women would go to Kenneth (Battelle) in New York to have thier hair combed before traveling. Also there were the profuse usage of switches and falls, also de rigeur for the chic set, made of Dynel (a favorite accessory for the models of Vogue during D.V.'s day) or real hair cut from Italian women - the best of which was coiffed and sold by Carita of Paris. Those who did not go to Carita or Kenneth, went to Alexandre de Paris.

Kenneth Battelle

Some of my favorite bouffant wearers of that time were Babe Paley (of course), Louise Savitt, Diana Ross, Ira von Furstenberg, and Jackie O. (for the most part I did not care for her bubble cut of the White House years, prefering her longer styles of 63-69). I also cared for the 70's versions frequently seen on the cover of Grace Mirabella's Vogue and sported by the likes of Mica Ertegun or Catherine Deneuve.



Diana Ross and the Supremes


Ira von Furstenberg 1968



Jackie in 66 with Caroline

But of them all, I think the best and most consistent chic belonged to Lee Radziwill , Jackie's sister. For the entire decade of the 60s, her bouffant was pitch-perfect; from the shorter days of the early White House years to the longer days of Truman Capote at the end of the decade.



One of my favorite pictures of Lee. (same sitting , two different shots) The bouffant is perfect and I love the sweater dress.


Lee in Paris 1962

Lee (2nd from left) at the State of the Union Address 1963


Lee with Truman at the Emmy's 1968

Whether this style of hairdressing is dated or not is totally in the eye of the beholder, but one cannot deny its greatness!


Semper Chic!