Showing posts with label D.V.. Show all posts
Showing posts with label D.V.. Show all posts

Friday, July 31, 2009

Obsessions


Sometimes I feel redundant. Redundant isn't the right word. Repetitive maybe?

What I mean is I keep coming back to certain things as a designer and a passionate observer of all things stylishly aesthetic. In this instance, I am referring to my obsession with the trapeze line and the shift.

I keep trying to move past it, but every time I see it I become intoxicated allover again with it. There is such a purity of line that, to me , compasseth all understanding (as the Bible would say). Its so effortless, so serenely elegant. I feel like fashion today has lost that completely. Yes, there is a panoply of easy to wear clothes out there, but the say NOTHING! As Kay Thompson said in DV style in Funny Face, "It doesn't SPEAK! And if doesn't speak to me, it won't speak to anyone." They maybe simple, but its not emphatic. I LIVE for emphatic simplicity in design. Even if there is a degree of exuberance, there still must me a simplicity about it. Like a Pucci shift or a jewel encrusted swing dress.

The opposite of this, which is also very prevalent in the market, is fussiness. I remember Polly Mellen in Unzipped saying "Fussy. Finished." LOL! And its so true. All the ruching, wrapping and furbelows...its just too much sometimes. There is no cleanness to it. Now don't get me wrong. I love the extras and the excesses of fashion. Anyone who ever saw a picture of me dressed up, would know that. But there has to be a balance in the market and in the consumers' wardrobes. For every ruched sheath,with epaulets, blouson sleeves, and asymmetrical neckline, and for every cotton t-shirt dress, you need 2 or 3 utterly simple, but strong shifts. I guess I feel there's not enough of that out there for me.

So even though I find something interesting about most of what out there today, and get tingles when I see something new that resonates with the inner "vainglorious vanguardist" in me that is always on the hunt for something marvelous and new, when I see the ineffable glory of a Norrell or Mainbocher or Balenciaga or Simonetta, everything else falls away and disappears from view and I want only it. What I am learning is to, as a designer, be ok with that. To do what feels right, what resonates, what speaks to me on that deepest, truest level and not worry about being a sensation or giving them the latest. To just do what I know and what I do best. And if that means I can't dress everyone, ok. The few I will dress, will be stunning and will be fulfilled by what I bring to them.
















Tuesday, June 3, 2008

Sex and the City- The Movie




I wrote this Sunday afternoon, June 1st...

Ok. So I just saw SATC the movie. It goes without saying it was very entertaining, the plot and dialogue were more than satisfying to any longtime fan , and the fashion was obscenely profuse. I had a lot of thoughts and emotions leaving the theater....


1) It is very difficult to take in so much current fashion at one sitting. With the series, it was 30 mins once a week. Even if you have the dvd and do a 2 hr marathon, its still not as fashion saturated as the movie is. Don't get me wrong, I loved every minute of it...the way you love every minute of eating half a flourless chocolate cake. Its great in the moment, but you will become light headed from the rush. It was so visually stimulating. I would liken it to the new Speed Racer movie in the visual stimulation category, but in a far more sophisticated, adult way. The reason I italicized "current" before is because the deluge of fashion in period pieces, whether the setting is the recent past like the original "The Women" or more distant history like "Marie Antoinette", the space of time re-conceptualizes and re-contextualizes the impact of the costume and becomes less inundating, while still intoxicating and thrilling.

From start to finish, SATC label and trend heavy. A live action Vogue magazine ( a long-time dream of mine). 2+ hours of unadulterated, unapologetic fashion. Anything in that amount can become heady, even for the indoctrinated such as myself. I have attended, virtually and in person, breathtaking fashion shows that were almost orgasmic with the escalating beauty and drama of the clothes and their presentation (Chado Ralph Rucci), but even the longest fashion shows last maybe 20 minutes. That's about as much as the mind can process. Its only been 2 hours since I saw the movie as I type this, and I can only remember two handfuls of key looks and pieces. I got the overall feel and look at work, but I think the nuances that make fashion great, the nuances that great costume designers work hard at achieving, the nuances that we know a character to express, were greatly missed by the audience because of the quantity. Or more simply, the breadth overpowered the depth. For example, the bird that Carrie wore in her hair for the wedding. Most people thought they were feathers, but it was a bird. They mentioned it later in the film that it was a bird, but I actually, but just barely, caught that it was indeed a bird during the scene. But the even more hidden nuance was that the bird was blue and represented the bride's something blue. You see what I mean? With the action of the plot and dialogue, plus the barrage of gorgeous, detailed clothes and accessories, little meanings like that are temporarily lost...I know it was not happenstance the bird was blue and prominently seen. Those nuances are definitely there, but it will be upon 2nd, 3rd , and 10th viewing that they will be fully exposed.




It also left no downtime. Even the most fashionable people, real or fictitious, have to have down time...if only to stay on top of it. But when the girls were packing up Carrie's apartment impeccably dressed, it came off unbelievable. They never would have done that in the actual series. There was plenty of downtime in the series. The series had ebb and flow fashionably. Granted the downtime in the show was still fabulous, but a more quirky fabulous than a stunning, statement fabulous. I chock it up to them knowing this was going to be it forever and so they wanted to give it to us, once and for all. So I can live with that. Another discrepancy with the show and movie, is that I don't recall them being SO accessorized. Yes there was always a great shoe or bag, sometimes a great shoe AND bag, or a important brooch, bangle, necklace, or earring, but rarely, if ever, do I recall them doing it all at once on any one character. In the movie, every accessory commanded attention, from head to toe. You didn't know what to look at first. And the accessories sometimes competed with the garment, not complemented, and vice versa. Things that every stylish person knows not to do (although admittedly I have done it and every stylish person has done it when they were really in the groove and needed to be over the top that day!) But again, I forgive it, knowing it was the last time. I also forgive it because I know it will give me lots to look at and reexamine in the future and who doesn't love seeing something new each time they watch something they've seen before? I am not criticizing the film, I am just giving my observations.




2.) I thought, what a perfect and robust time capsule this film will be. It wholly captures this moment in fashion for posterity. It will be the iconic film people will look at in 50, 60, 70 years and remember the first decade of this century. The SATC girls will be looked at as the Gibson Girls of the 21st Century.




3.) My most profound thought was, Can you ever tire of fashion? Or more aptly, Can one ever have done it all fashionably?

That movie ran the gamut so well, its like, what more is there? A movie like SATC makes one think about whether they themselves are fashionable enough. If they are indeed realizing their full potential sartorially. It makes you wanna try harder and be more creative in your dress. So I thought. How could I be more fashionable? How could I take my look(s) to new heights?




The answer was that I couldn't. I have tried everything. I have worn every conceivable silhouette available. I've done minimalism, I've done excess. I've done monochrome, I've done technicolor. I have pushed myself as far as I can go. I have reached self-actualization (the highest peak of Maslow's pyramidic Heirachy of Needs), fashionably speaking. I know what I can do and what works for me. The only thing I could do is wear more expensive clothing, which will be a welcome and much anticipated luxury, but it won't be any different(especially if you are like me and you covet and regard thrift store finds as highly as designer goods). But even if my future diamonds are real, they certainly cannot add any more chic than my paste jewels have for so many years.

At first, this realization upset me. As a true lover of fashion, the idea that there could be nothing truly new for me was...disturbing. Then I understood what it really meant. That I can only perfect my style now. I have spent 25 years figuring it out, discovering and experiencing the wealth of possibilities. Now that I know what I love, I can begin refining my look and taking it to new heights of impeccable style.


This, my chic friends, is the greater part of the journey into style. When one reaches that plateau, one has focus. They are no longer beset or distracted by ALL the world's fabulousness, but can concentrate all one's vision, efforts, and resources on a single path of style righteousness. While you may dabble in a trend here and there, you are no longer tossed and driven by the seas of ever-changing fashion. The pursuit is no longer about the latest, but the greatest. I think I have always known this, but seeing SATC was like looking at a mirror and realizing that there's more. You may start of as Carrie, but you have to grow to Carolina (Herrera, that is)!! That's when the days of daring fashions are traded in for stunning classics, no less adventurous, but infinitely signature and identifiably you.



Comparison: Carrie and Carolina


Timeless Chic:


And the beauty is that dressing becomes so much easier at that stage. The struggle over what to wear when, where, and how? Gone. The despair over the haphazard, incoherent, or periodically undesirable/frustrating state of your wardrobe? (You, Caroline.) No More. The in-store debate of where and how this new purchase will work in your wardrobe? A thing of the past. It all becomes clearer. That doesn't mean it won't be difficult at times because, as I said, it is a journey and you must learn the special kind of discipline necessary to achieve perfection. Its like D.V. said, "Elegance is Refusal". So while at first it may be difficult to not buy it or to figure out what to wear, as you acquire the disciplined eye (the eye already being keen), these trifles of dressing will fade.


Me after my fashion show last August in vlack and white silk tweed duster
I, like the Apostle Paul, may not have yet attained, but I press toward the mark. And with this knowledge and foresight, I look forward to the journey of perfected chic!
I'll keep you posted on my sojourn.

Semper Chic!

Friday, May 30, 2008

D.V. Speaks!

The "high-priestess" of fashion speaks on one of my favorite periods, the Belle Epoque!

Friday, May 2, 2008

Backcomb'n Beat

An album cover from a compilation of 60's British girl group hits and rarities. I love the title and the pic!


For those of you who know me well, you know how I have an affinity for bouffant hairstyles. I just think they are swell!! I like the bouffants of the 60's, the ones that have lots of height at the crown, back and away from the face and fall elegantly back and to the sides. They frame the face and neck so well. (I don't care for the beehives of the 50's.)
Princess Luciana Pignatelli in Valentino
Some of the best bouffants today are worn by Deeda Blair, a phenomenal halo of salt and pepper she has donned since the 60s, beautiful actresses Lynn Whitfield and Diahann Carroll, and the incomparable Michelle Obama.


Michelle Obama

Back in the day, every chic woman would backcomb as a daily ritual, not just for specail occassions. I recall Andre Talley recalling how the women would go to Kenneth (Battelle) in New York to have thier hair combed before traveling. Also there were the profuse usage of switches and falls, also de rigeur for the chic set, made of Dynel (a favorite accessory for the models of Vogue during D.V.'s day) or real hair cut from Italian women - the best of which was coiffed and sold by Carita of Paris. Those who did not go to Carita or Kenneth, went to Alexandre de Paris.

Kenneth Battelle

Some of my favorite bouffant wearers of that time were Babe Paley (of course), Louise Savitt, Diana Ross, Ira von Furstenberg, and Jackie O. (for the most part I did not care for her bubble cut of the White House years, prefering her longer styles of 63-69). I also cared for the 70's versions frequently seen on the cover of Grace Mirabella's Vogue and sported by the likes of Mica Ertegun or Catherine Deneuve.



Diana Ross and the Supremes


Ira von Furstenberg 1968



Jackie in 66 with Caroline

But of them all, I think the best and most consistent chic belonged to Lee Radziwill , Jackie's sister. For the entire decade of the 60s, her bouffant was pitch-perfect; from the shorter days of the early White House years to the longer days of Truman Capote at the end of the decade.



One of my favorite pictures of Lee. (same sitting , two different shots) The bouffant is perfect and I love the sweater dress.


Lee in Paris 1962

Lee (2nd from left) at the State of the Union Address 1963


Lee with Truman at the Emmy's 1968

Whether this style of hairdressing is dated or not is totally in the eye of the beholder, but one cannot deny its greatness!


Semper Chic!

Why Don't You?

In the spirit of the late, great master arbiter of style Mrs. Diana Dalziel Vreeland (D.V. to those in the know), I think I will periodical post some creative, slightly eccentric, bon mots of my own. I may even have by indefatiquably stylish cousin B. to contribute to these posts as he has one of the most sophisticated minds I know! In any case, here goes...

Why Don't You...
...when angered to the point of violence by a friend or a foe, get a rifle!
BUT, instead of shooting the target of your unrest, redirect that and go skeet shooting. Its much healthier all around, cheaper than legal defense, and supremely chicer. And imagine how good your aim will get?! Maybe I am naive, but I think it will go a long way toward alleviating a lot of Black-on-Black crime!

I am reminded of a terribly chic picture of Slim Keith -during her days as Mrs. Howard Hawks- at a shoot, looking statuesque, rifle in hand, wearing those insouciant slacks she helped make in vogue. I have the picture in Slim's autobio and I would post the picture, but I have lent it to a dear, chic friend who has yet to finish it and return it ( you know who you are!), but I will post it later when I can. In the meantime, here's a pic of Slim with D.V. and her husband T. Reed Vreeland at Kitty and Gilbert Miller's annual New Year's Eve party in 1952. Just a little eye candy! Semper Chic!