Inspiration...

My fall 09 look. Wait for it...

My Favorite Things

C.Z. Guest in Mainbocher at her home Templeton in Old Westbury,NY

Opera Coats

There is nothing so elegantly extravagant in a woman's (or man's) wardrobe as an Opera Coat.
As is true of all design (being differentiated from art), the opera coat is essentially a utilitarian concept: a cover-up long enough to protect the wearer and their fine evening garments from the elements. But the beauty of the coat is how it goes about protecting. It does its job while retaining its own unique air of regality and decorum. And nothing makes for a grander entrance than a voluminous sweep of duchese, faille, ottoman, petersham, gazar, radzimir, brocade, matelasse, or tussah.

Far better than just a top coat and even more preferred than a fur (Hell just froze over!), an opera coat is so beautiful it can really stand on its own merits. But combined with a gorgeous evening gown or a man's or woman's tuxedo, it makes a striking complete evening look. Unfortunately, we don't see nearly enough of the opera coat these days. I hope to rectify that by including an opera coat in every collection I do. Its an essential for me, without which a collection would be incomplete.

Here are some of my favorite stylistas in some of my favorite examples true couture opera coats...

Deeda Blair in Chado Ralph Rucci in 2004

Hamish Bowles at the Met Costume Institute Gala

Andre Talley at the Met Costume Institute Gala

The Leontyne Opera Coat from Charles Lord's Principessa Collection (left) and Audrey Hepburn in a similar Givenchy number fromt he mid 60s (right

Audrey Hepburn in Givenchy

Marella Agnelli in Balenciaga

If One Picture is Worth a Thousand Words...

I have nothing to add, just look:
http://ana-lee.livejournal.com/175226.html

My Favorite Things

I am currently obsessed with the music of Gino Vannelli. He's a genius.



This song is so damn funky! It evokes a louche SEXUAL feel like that of a Helmut Newton photograph.

This song has an equally louche, but more SENSUAL feel, more reminiscent of an Author Elgort.

My Favorite Things

Shoulder Pads!

I know it UBER-trendy right now to rock shoulder pads. But those of you who know me, Know I have been pinning shoulder pads inside any garment I could since at least 2001!!!

Its not about a trend for me. Its about the perfection of silhouette. For me it gives a strong foundation for any garment. Everything falls from the shoulder. If you want a smaller waist , broaden the shoulder. I naturally have a strong shoulder, but the heightened perfection of additional half inch to 2 inches of height (not necessarily width), makes a great look sublime. And it makes my less than minuscule waist seem significantly smaller, without being femininely waspy.

The only problem with shoulder pads- in the vintage sense- are the ones of the late 80s, when the trend had reach literally gigantic proportions. If you pay attention, the shoulder pad of the late 70s to mid 80s focused more on height. The did not extend the width of the shoulder beyond its natural end. But somewhere around 85-87, the shoulder became exaggeratedly wide, extending the shoulder OUT another 3 inches or more. Granted, this did give a FIERCE wasp waist to the ladies and the guys looked like Gary Cooper on steroids, but it was a bit much and really cannot be re-applied to today's trend for a strong shoulder. (The exception being someone so aesthetically driven that they can work just about anything... read: Myself!!!)

Inspiration...

My Look for Fall 09. Wait for it....

My Favorite Things

The song "I Loves You Porgy" :
I first discovered the song a year ago. I was listening to Diana Ross' Blue album, which is a jazz album covering songs popularly and previously recorded by Billie Holiday and was produced as a follow up to the Lady Sings The Blues soundtrack album, but was not released until 2006. Anyway, I kept repeating that one track over and over, because of the orchestration and the vocal delivery and the interesting lyrics. I just loved it. Well I recently got a Billie Holiday cd and a Nina Simone cd, and both have versions of "I Loves You Porgy". Well, they have a very different feel than Miss Ross'. Not better, just different and I feel truer sentimentality to what the song is about and what is going on in the plot of the American folkloric opera "Porgy and Bess" from which the song is derived. Diana's rendition is done with a big band sound and the tempo swings and is thus more ebullient, whereas Holiday's and Simone's versions are much simpler, yet still complex; they have more longing and passion and is tres distingue' .

ANYWAY, I started listening to Billie's version last week, and have played it at least once (usually more times) a day, everyday since. Its just such an evocative song. There are few songs, by few artists that move me the way this one does. I could listen to it forever.
I couldn't find Diana's version online for comparison, but here is Billie's and Nina's versions.
Enjoy!

My Favorite Things

I decided to do more posts that allowed me to express myself without causing me to write 4 page essays! You know I can talk forever and have something witty and brilliant to say on almost every topic, so conciseness is an issue for me...one that I am not overly eager to modify, but be able to use when necessary. Anyway, I figure this is one of many ways I can succinctly share my thoughts and feelings, but knowing me I will find a way to extol endlessly in this venue as well!
For some of you that already know me well, this ongoing list may not always surprise you, but hopefully entertain.

Rotary Phones:
I just got one. Not a regular black Bell desk phone. But a beautiful brass and marble table with the princess style receiver and rotary dial built in. I am a sucker for old-fashioned elegance and this table-phone reeks of it! Now I want a quill dip pen and ink well and parchment note pad to sit on the table to doodle and scribble messages on. I will try to take a picture of it and post it .

I also like the idea of having to be relatively stationary while using a rotary phone. Unlike a cordless house phone or a cell phone, you actually get to take time and focus on conversation. The fact that I have to practically sit at this phone, prepares me for the privilege of enjoying the pleasure of conversing with the person on the other end, whether it be brief or at length. It also allows me to think before I dial, if I really have the time or energy to engage in a lengthy conversation at the present time.

In all, its quaint and luxurious and I love it!